Readers of my blog of late have found it turned mostly into a tea travelogue. Not because I’ve changed focus, but because I tend to write about what I’m thinking of, and I think about my next decent cup of tea a lot.
I have completely covered my efforts to source good loose leaf tea to make for ourselves in the splendid accommodation that we occupied in Phuket. In great detail.
My plan is always to have great tea within any hotel room, self contained unit or other such accommodation, wherever we may be staying. This is prefaced on the idea that when I arise at around 5am, when I bring Lady Devotea her morning paper or before retiring are not always convenient times to nip out for a dine-in or take-away tea.
Of course, accommodation usually offers tea bags; and sadly, despite staying at a resort that was pretty perfect, they compounded the problems by offering sachets of “creamer”. Strange in a country as awash in milk as Thailand is. They love their milk.
Dedicated readers might recall that the last decent cup of prepared loose leaf tea I related enjoying was at Harrods at Kuala Lumpur airport just prior to our departure to Thailand.
I made two assumptions prior to jetting in – that much of the tea on offer in restaurants and cafes would be loose leaf green, as I imagine it is in China, and that some of those roadside vendors one hears about would be able to hook me up with my fix of tea.
And you know what they say about assumptions.
From our mid-morning arrival to our buffet dinner at the resort, I didn’t see any opportunities on day one.
Is that unusual in a new place? No. You have to let your tea sense wander the streets and byways, soaking in the atmosphere.
Day Two I found the first of my loose leaf teas to take back to the hotel as previously related. I also had two cups of hot tea out. Both teabags, I’m afraid. Both Twinnings Darjeeling teabags. One at Century 22 cafe at Village Central, a shop set up to overcharge tourists but with nice cakes; and one at the tiny family owned Core Cafe behind our hotel. Incidentally, the latter made a cinnamon-tinged cappuccino that Lady Devotea rates as her best coffee in Asia.
Day Two was also significant as I had two iced teas. But that’s a whole other post.
Day Three I enjoyed this cup of tea in the picture. It was tea bag tea from the ubiquitous Lipton yellow Label, but the context was this: 
It was our 25th wedding anniversary, we had seen some amazing sights, we were between two sessions of jumping of a boat and snorkeling; having a brilliant time and we were in the magnificent island of Phi Phi Don. In other words, I was willing to forgive the universe just this once for the quality of tea.
By now, I’d come to understand that there is virtually no culture of drinking quality hot tea whilst out in Thailand. Having accepted it in Spain – where they don’t drink much tea – and the UK – where your chances of finding a decent tea amidst the milk-soaked tasteless mediocrity of the teabag fare are infinitesimal – I had to accept it again.
The week wound on and I lived in hope. I found exquisite tea-sets for sale; probably for the Chinese market.
There were a few more Twinnings Darjeeling tea bags.
We had afternoon tea in the resort one afternoon; and over there protests I made them get every tea out of their cupboard. At the back, they had the same Thai Raming Organic Jasmine I was drinking in the room. Again over their protests I ordered that, and sadly, they really made it very badly. And charged over three times what the whole box cost me on the streets.
Late in the week, it seemed there was a breakthrough. We went away from the touristy areas into a local area, and we were cruising past the roadside stalls, when I saw this:
YES! “The tea pot” With a picture of Indian-style Chai stretching.
“Mr Owen, stop the Tuk-Tuk”.
We tumbled eagerly down the street. The vendor spoke little English.
She explained that the picture was of coffee, not tea. Clearly not true. She offered us tea made from Nestea powder, or this “very very good” coffee made in away that meant it looked like chai. Turned out to be triple strength instant, with evaporated milk, over ice. Horrid stuff.
There was no breakthrough with regard to hot tea. every decent cup of good hot tea we had in Thailand was one I made. And sipping it on a balcony at 3am when it’s 25 degrees Celsius is quite wonderful, I can assure you.
The breakthrough occurred Day Three and involved the letters JP, some syrup, a singing barista and the company of “ladies of negotiable affection”. At least, I assumed they were ladies.
And if that’s not a teaser for my next blog, I don’t know what is.
“Ladies of negotiable affection” now that’s an original term I haven’t heard before. Do they drink a lot of tea out there? Is there a link between tea and said “profession?”
No, I see were this is heading. You came across a little cafe where you munched on pancakes with syrup while baristas serenaded and a “lovable” waitress named JP served tea.
Am I close? I’m waiting for the next post, please hurry!
J.
I think you’re on to a new career type. A tea travelogue. Although, it’s hard to get an edge up on the Palais de Thes guy.
Excellent post. Glad you had a good time overall.
Tea and its mysteries.
When you expect something, you don’t find anything and when you expect nothing, you find something (yes I know I am getting quite cryptic and mystical, let’s say your Buddhist wisdom hit me :P)